2019 - Montlouis-sur-Loire Hauts Husseau, Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups

It's not Mont Blanc, but Les Hauts de Husseau is the highest point in the Montlouis appellation (at 90 meters in altitude), and so the local limestone is close to the surface, which is palpable in the chalky texture and fine line of the 2019. It comes from a cold site that's picked around a week and a half later than the domaine's other sites, but boy, is it worth the wait. It’s a little closed compared with its stablemates, but this is an exciting wine with underlying power that goes on and on, offering excellent distance. While there are subtle custard apple and crème caramel characters (likely a result of fermentation in old oak and extended time on fine lees), this is a wine whose most intriguing aspect is its texture and structure. There’s no hurry to drink this one.